Israel - A Real Surprise!

Abi Prescott on 03 March 2011
Tel Aviv - it still conjures up images of hostility for most people, and it did for me too! How surprised was I to find a vibrant city that seemingly never sleeps? With miles of sandy beaches, museums, sidewalk cafes, theatres, elegant restaurants, shopping malls and boutiques, Tel Aviv was made for strolling and browsing. From Jaffa at the southern end of Tel Aviv to the north of the city, it is possible to walk for miles along the beachfront promenade.

The first two days were spent acquainting ourselves with Tel Aviv starting in the hustle and bustle that is Carmel open-air market, one of the largest markets in the Middle East, followed by nearby Nahalat Binyamin market which is Tel Aviv's main arts and crafts bazaar - not as brash as Carmel, but definitely worth a wander. Lunch at Abouelafia in Jaffa was a veritable feast and a great introduction to the delicious dishes on offer - a shame we couldn't eat it all! Jaffa was once Palestine's main port and is now in Tel Aviv's suburbs. With its impressive 1906 clock tower, the Mahmudiya Mosque, Jerusalem Gate and sites with biblical connections we had plenty to look at before chilling out for an hour or so on one of Tel Aviv's beautiful sandy beaches. We also visited the renovated neighbourhood of Neve Tzedek which is now one of the city's most trendiest quarters with its highly sought after properties, the Old Train Station with its array of shops and eateries, followed by some of the city's Bauhaus architecture. After dinner we had some fun sampling the delights of Tel Aviv's hip nightlife in a few of the lively bars such as Nanuchka - standing room only and really loud music!

A busy day started with a visit to Caesarea, the ancient port built by King Herod in 22-10BC and we got a real feel for its history by watching a multimedia presentation after walking around this historic site. Proceeding to Zichron Yaakov, a town in the heart of the wine country, we stopped to visit the Carmel Winery where the delightful Valerie introduced us to their local rose, white and red wines - a little too early in the day for me but I didn't think it was polite to refuse! The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Akko (Acre) was the next stop. Akko is an ancient Phoenician and Crusader seaport with Knights' Halls, underground Crusader city and fishermen's port and bazaar - we were also very fortunate, I think!, to be given a surprise tour of the sewers! We just managed a quick glimpse of the Baha'i Shrine and Gardens in Haifa on the way back to Tel Aviv.

Jerusalem - our first view of this historic city was from the Mount of Olives and it was absolutely stunning with the Dome of the Rock taking centre-stage and glistening in the sunlight. Inside the old city walls we walked through the different quarters visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the Christian Quarter, the most venerated Christian shrine in the world and home to the last five Stations of the Cross, the last one being Jesus' tomb - the Holy Sepulchre - and forming the centrepiece at the heart of the building. No visit to Jerusalem would be complete without a visit to Judaism's most sacred site, the Western (Wailing) Wall in the Jewish Quarter. Souk Khan al-Zeit, in the Muslim Quarter, is the liveliest shopping street in the old city and is very atmospheric. After a light lunch we went to the Israel Museum with the Shrine of the Book where the Dead-Sea Scrolls are exhibited, then onto the Yad VaShem, the Holocaust Memorial and museum - a very moving experience.

On the way to Ein Bokek, a spa resort on the Dead Sea, we stopped briefly at Kibbutz Ein Gedi to marvel at the stunning botanical gardens - a miracle in such an arid country!

Eilat, on the Red Sea, was to be our last stop where we enjoyed a jeep tour in Eilat Mountains and Timna Park followed by a camel ride in the mountains with Nahal Shlomo Camel Ranch - OK, I confess, I didn't get on the camel! Our final morning was spent at the amazing Underwater Observatory Marine Park followed by the stunning Dolphin Reef for a few hours of blissful relaxation enjoying a floating massage and watching the dolphins.

Such a happy nation - and another very happy visitor!