Parga & Meteora
It is easy to see why the owners, Christos and Irini, welcome back so many returning guests, with some having been going for years and often more than once a year, or staying a month at a time...what a luxurious treat that would be!
We needed to unwind, and spent the first few days just chilling out by the pool, chatting, reading and going for a few walks to the pretty harbour and town, usually when the heat of the afternoon sun had subsided, mostly dining out whilst we were there. We were delighted to find some more restaurants in places we hadn’t ventured before – often over-indulging in the delicious fare, although we did make sure there was always a Greek salad included in the spread!
Last year we ran out of time to visit Meteora, so ensured we booked on the excursion this time. It was to be a long day, and it turned out to be the hottest of the week, reaching up to 44 degrees! Meteora is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, considered to be unique - and also featured in the James Bond film 'For Your Eyes Only'. Situated above the town of Kalambaka on the north-western edge of Greece’s plain of Thessaly, are the giant rock formations that reach almost 400 metres into the sky, and are topped with magnificent monasteries. Monks settled here in the 11th Century by living in caves, until the 14th Century when the first monasteries were built, clinging to the tops of the rock formations. It does make you marvel at their ingenuity, a formidable achievement given when they were built – and the fact they are still there to this day. Whilst staring at nature in its grandest form, we felt small and irrelevant by comparison.
We ventured inside the Great Meteora Monastery, which is the oldest and largest in the region, offering a good idea of Greek Orthodox monasticism. The icon murals were immaculate and the skulls in the ossuary fascinating.
Upon returning to Parga, we stopped for a short time in Metsovo to stretch our legs and partake in a Nescafe frappe. Metsovo is a charming village with a real alpine feel somewhat akin to Austria – and it is possible to ski close by in the winter months, which I was surprised to discover.
After vising the Acheron Gorge for a few hours last year we decided to hire a car and spend the whole day there, not restricted by excursion times. Although we made an early start it was already fairly busy when we arrived and clearly a popular day out. We ventured into the very welcome freezing cold water and enjoyed paddling, then wading, up the river. Chris and Bobbi went a long way up and made it to the bridge whilst I returned to the waters’ edge and enjoyed a long cold drink. Once they got back they joined a rafting trip downstream on the Acheron River, through some gentle rapids until they reached Gliki village, where they were driven back to join me for a late lunch.
On the drive back to Parga we made a small detour to the village of Ammoudia which is situated at the mouth of the Acheron River where boats are ready to take you upstream. This river is known as Styx in Greek mythology serving as a barrier between the living and the Underworld!
I’m sure we will return to Parga again someday soon and discover more of this beautiful part of Greece.
Please do get in touch if you’d like some help planning your own Greek Odyssey!