Back-packing trip around Italy
The Cinque Terre had been on my travel wish list for years, located a short train ride away from Pisa, these 5 towns are all linked together by rail and boat (or foot if you’re intrepid and have sturdy walking shoes) and easily visited in a couple of days. You can base yourself in La Spezia and take the train from there but what’s much better is basing yourself in one of the towns: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola or Riomaggiore as once the day-trippers disappear it’s much quieter. If you’ve ever seen Pixar’s move ‘Luca’ you will instantly recognize these towns, a higgledy-piggledy bunch of villages, impossibly built into the cliffs, where farmers grow grapes and olives on the terraced hillsides; they say if they didn’t the whole lot would disappear into the sea! We chose Monterosso as our base as it’s the only one with a proper beach. Our six year old delighted in taking the train in-between towns (each journey takes no longer than 5 minutes) and exploring each one which has it’s own distinct atmosphere. We took the boat for one journey to mix it up and we saw people kayaking between towns which gives a different perspective.
This was our first backpacking trip with our child and wanted to show him how you can travel in-between places. We were on a tight schedule so pre-planned it all but I love the endless possibility of a back-packing trip! To quote Dr Seuss; ‘Oh, The Places you can go!’ We took the train to Florence with a couple of hours stop in Pisa (there is a luggage storage at the station) to see the famous leaning tower and sample the gelato!
Onto Florence which is a stunning city, with so much culture you could spend days in just the museums, but we passed on this and spent two day’s wandering around, eating gelato, walking the Ponte Vecchio (a medieval stone bridge with shops built along) and climbing Giotto’s clock tower at the Duomo, with over 400 steps it gives an amazing views of the city, that literally take your breath away. We managed to find the statue of the boar and placed a coin in his mouth, gave his nose a rub and bingo that means you’re going to visit again. Good job at the leather handbags stores are far too tempting!
It was then time to travel down to the Amalfi coast. We loved taking the FrecciaRossa (Red Arrow) high speed train between Florence and Salerno which took around 3 hours, we travelled business class which gave wider seats with more legroom and refreshments, it was a comfortable ride that passed quickly.
We then took the ferry from Salerno to Positano which was scenic and got a great view of the landscape, mountains reaching up into the clouds and towns built into the hillside, similar to the Cinque Terre but on steroids! We love the Amalfi coast; Positano was the setting for our wedding in 2011 and we hadn’t visited since. We were surprised how busy it had got, not sure if this is down to a post pandemic rush or if the popularity in drones and the Instagram generation putting this place firmly on the map.
There was a heatwave when we arrived (36 degrees) which gave a feeling to how it must be in high summer. If you like it hot visit late June through August. If you’d rather avoid the heat then travel April-May or September-October. John Steinbeck once wrote: ‘ Positano bites deep. It’s a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone’. He was right, you have to go to see what he means.
We spent our days swimming in the sea and took a day trip to Capri. Once the ferry drops you off it’s a funicular railway up-to Capri town, remember to pre-purchase your tickets before you start queuing. We then took the bus to Anacapri which was exciting in itself, going high up into the mountains with lots of switch-backs. You then take a chairlift to the top and the views are stunning.
We had visited Pompei, Amalfi, Ravello and Sorrento on previous trips but they are all great days out possible from Positano.
There is the famous ‘Walk of the Gods’ which is a 4 mile walk in the mountains with coastal views all along. We decided against it as it was far too hot, you have to leave a reason to return!
We then took the short ferry trip to Naples and had a night here before we flew home. We ate gelato, and their famous wood-fired pizza (which was invented there) at ‘da Michele’, for 5 Euro you’ll eat the most authentic, tastiest pizza there is. We walked the cobbled streets and took in the atmosphere. It’s a gritty city and has so much history, it’s one of the oldest in Europe. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, if you like polished then give it a miss, if you love to get up close and personal with how the locals live, neighbours chatting over balconies hanging out their underwear strung up between buildings then this is the place to come!
If you want me to create your next back-packing adventure then get in touch (back-packs optional you can take a suitcase and still do this trip!). For more photos and to follow my adventures, see my Instagram: annafarmer.travelcounsellors