Secrets of Soutwest France: Josephine Baker and Chateau Des Milandes

There are many special places in Southwest France: Bonaguil is one of the largest and best restored castles in the area; Richard the Lionheart's own bastide of Penne d'Agenais; the ancient village of Pujols above Villeneuve-sur-Lot, and Villeneuve-sur-Lot's own midweek farmers market, an unpretentious gastronomic feast. There are also prehistoric sites and caves, hiking, boating, and kayaking on the River Lot.

A little further north, just east of Bergerac, is Chateau des Milandes, Josephine Baker's chateau, near Sarlat. Josephine Baker is one of my personal heroines: a generous, humanitarian visionary, and the greatest cabaret star of all time. Her story is now celebrated in the Chateau des Milandes, the beautiful 15th century castle she bought in 1947 after renting it for many years. She transformed it into a home for her 12 adopted children, as well as a successful avant-garde tourist attraction.

Josephine Baker was born in St Louis, Missouri and began her career in Vaudeville before moving to New York City during the Harlem Renaissance. She was an early civil rights activist and refused to perform in America to segregated audiences. She soon moved to Paris where she became the first world famous African-American entertainer. Her iconic banana skirt costume is on display at the castle along with other memorabilia. Josephine Baker was also active in the French Resistance during World War II and was made a Chevalier of the Legion D'honneur. Later, after a series of financial problems she went bankrupt and tragically lost her Chateau. She was rescued by Princess Grace and given a home in Monaco.

Today Chateau des Milandes can be seen in all its glory with its stone towers and turrets, sculptures, gargoyles and chimeras, stained glass windows, extensive gardens above the Dordogne River with a magnificent arboretum of trees. Chateau des Milandes is one of the most beautiful buildings in the Perigord Noir. Lovingly curated by the de LaBarre family, it is an impressive tribute to the life and work of Josephine Baker. It also has one of the best falconry shows in the Med.

If any of these destinations whets your appetite for gardens, pink wine, fine food and the sun of Southwest, give me a call for a trip to remember.