Family Fun in Sri Lanka

After many years of sending clients to Sri Lanka and being desperate to go myself, I finally made it there with my young family in July for a seventeen-night adventure. We flew direct with Sri Lankan Airlines on their daily flight from Heathrow. The crew were brilliant with the children and the inflight entertainment kept everyone happy for the eleven-hour flight. Sri Lanka is smaller than Ireland and although you can take a small scenic flight between some of the main tourist locations, it is also very easy to be drive. We opted for driving, which most people do and had a huge vehicle with lots of space for everyone to spread to relax. Our wonderful driver/guide Tironne looked after us beautifully, nothing was too much trouble for him and he took care of everything. After one night in Negombo to catch up on some sleep, we headed north to Habarana for a few action-packed days. We stopped en-route at the famous Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, which although touristy, was one of the highlights of the holiday. The elephants are walked through the town three times a day to bathe in the river. We were able to eat lunch on the terrace of Hotel Pinnalanda, over-looking the river and watching the elephants play. Habarana is one of the main places to stay in the ‘Cultural Triangle’ and from you can visit sites such as Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, Sigiriya Rock and Minneriya National Park. We had three happy days at Habarana Village by Cinnamon. The rooms (bungalows with two rooms in each) were huge and brilliant for families as you can have your own bungalow (but no interconnecting rooms). We loved the pool with views over the lake and the wonderfully colonial bar area and restaurant. Like many hotels in Sri Lanka, they provided a huge and varied buffet dinner, which offered something for everyone whatever their tastes.

We started off with an elephant safari at Minneriya which was truly amazing. The elephants gather in this area during July and August, which meant we saw so many as well as astounding bird life. We also visited the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, an hour away from Habarana and we climbed the famous Sigiriya Rock Fortress; it is an intimidating climb when you are standing beneath it, but we bounded up, including my eight-year-old daughter. The views are breath-taking, and the art and architecture are fascinating. July is not the best time for the southern and western beaches, so we headed north east to Trincomalee. British summer is the best time to visit this part of Sri Lanka and the beaches and the sea were totally stunning. During the civil war it was not possible to travel to here, but it is now firmly on the map. We stayed at Trinco Blu, another Cinnamon hotel, which we loved. It was right on the beach, with an enormous pool and great clean, white, crisp rooms. Not far from here is Pigeon Island which you can take a boat to and snorkel with turtles and sharks above the coral reef. You can watch the local fisherman bring in their catch on the beach every evening, or simply relax by the pool and swim in the beautifully tranquil sea. After all this peace, the bustling city of Kandy was a bit of a shock to all our senses and on reflection a hotel in the hills above the town might have been a more relaxing alternative, however our city centre hotel meant we only had to cross the road to visit the most holy shrine in Sri Lanka – The Temple of the Tooth. Following that, we took the famous train up into the hill country and the tea plantations. It really is one of the most stunning journeys and the train goes at such a gentle pace that you can watch the colourful local life as you pass through the villages and plantations. Trains never seem to be punctual in Sri Lanka, so it was nearly time for drinks when we arrived at the Hill Club in Nuwara Eliya. The Hill Club is an old traditional members club with 38 rooms and where you still need to wear a jacket and tie (you can borrow them from the club) for your 4-course dinner in the dining room. Nuwara Eliya is referred to as "little England" and is a small town by a lake surrounded by tea plantations. We had the most wonderful early morning seven mile walk around the grass plains and cloud forests of Horton Plains National Park and also had the obligatory tour of a tea plantation which is fascinating - even if you do not drink tea, like me. The highlight of the holiday for my son was the wildlife in Yala and Udawalawe National Parks. Yala is the place to see a leopard and hopefully a sloth bear (sadly not to be for us) and although you are surrounded by safari jeeps everywhere you look, it was a thrilling experience and our sighting of a leopard at a drinking hole was unforgettable. Udawalawe is more gentle, quieter and more picturesque with elephants, crocodile and an enormous array of birds. Kalu's Hideaway Hotel is a lovely, gem of a place to stay – just ten minutes from the park gates. It is a small boutique hotel owed by a famous Sri Lankan cricket player, there are only twelve rooms and most of them interconnect. The food was delicious, a lot of it straight from their garden and the staff were wonderful – even giving the children complimentary head massages on arrival. I think everyone that goes to Sri Lanka should try and fit in at least one night in Galle. The old Portuguese Fort was recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site in 1988 and is the most beautiful place to stay. Whilst it has more attraction for the adults than the children, you can wander along the ramparts and streets, buy jewellery or just sit in a café, watch the busy street life and soak up the atmosphere of this unique town. It is only 120km from Colombo and is on the way from Yala or Udawalawe. It is surrounded by endless beaches on the west coast and southern coasts which are at their best in the British winter and spring. After a lot of travelling and endless adventures we spent our last three nights on the beach in Bentota. The sea was too rough to swim in (expected at this time of year), but the two huge pools at the Avani and the huge garden beside the beach was all we needed whilst we relaxed and enjoyed our last three days in this magical country.

This was a wonderful family holiday and a real adventure in terms of culture, wildlife and landscape. Our children aged twelve, ten and eight adored the people and the country and we shared experiences that will live long in the memory.