Postcards from Morocco

Today we left Casablanca, took a train to Rabat, capital of Morocco. A few hours gave us chance to look at the Medina, the Kasbah (fortress) with its views overlooking the Atlantic, before we took another train to Meknes. This evening 6 of us went to a local family home for a traditional meal of Moroccan soup, couscous with chicken and vegetables, and a delicious chocolate cake and fresh fruit for dessert. It was such a lovely evening and the family welcomed questions from us.

Islamic architecture is beautiful. Everything is so intricate and ornate. This morning we explored Meknes. I particularly liked the Mausoleum. There is something about the patterns of Islamic architecture that I find really calming and peaceful. Today was a first for me, I had camel burger for lunch. It was actually very tasty, a bit like haggis! Morocco was part of the Roman Empire. We went back in time with a tour of Volubulis, Roman site between Meknes and Fes.

Fes, there's so much going on here. We've spent the whole day here with local guide Idriss. He was born in the Medina, so he knows his way around. It's the oldest and largest Medina in North Africa with more than 9000 alleyways. First though, we saw the Palace, then we found out how all the intricate tiles are made on a visit to a ceramic factory. We've seen the famous Tanneries (I've seen them on TV travel programmes), goodness, what a job. Pete and I were chosen as models in the silk shop (silk made from Agave cactus), and we've almost been overwhelmed by all the different shops in the Medina, including a butchers shop with a cows head hanging off a hook, and some other indescribable animal parts (Decided not to show that picture). We also visited a former Madrassa, again with the most beautiful intricate designs.

We're now in the Middle Atlas mountains, enroute to the Sahara desert. Today was mostly a travel day, but I'm happy to be back in rural Morocco that I remember from previous visits. We stopped at a nomadic shepherd's camp; hard to think that this lifestyle still goes on. This evening we took a walk around a local Berber village just as the sun was setting. The colour of the surrounding mountains was just magical. Mint tea is very traditional here, and the Berber host invited us in. Pete was chosen to make the tea, and pour for everyone. The local village children came running out to greet us as we walked past their houses.

Sahara Desert. Beautiful, wild, sculpted by the winds of time. Harsh for those who live here with next to no rain for the past 12 months. Last night saw us on a camel ride from our Berber camp into the dunes for sunset. One of those things you just have to do, such an experience but not sure I would want to do a multi day trek on one!

Today has been spectacular and humbling in equal measure. 6 of our Intrepid group set off on a 10km hike through the Todra gorge and up the mountain where we met a nomadic Berber family. The views of the gorge and surrounding mountains have been stunning. The encounter with the nomadic family was truly humbling. This family currently live at the top of the mountain with their sheep and goats. They live in caves, have no electricity and no running water. Every day one of their children hikes down the mountain with a couple of mules to the Todra Gorge, collects water and hikes back up again. This is a hard way of life, but has been made harder over the years by climate change. The old man has Parkinsons, and cataracts, and has no access to medical care. His grandchildren dont go to school. If they did, they would have to hike 1.5 hrs down and 2 hrs up each day. Each week the family takes a sheep or goat to the market so they can buy vegetables and flour to make bread on the open fire. This family have nothing but they made us tea and shared some of their bread with us. I asked the old man the one thing he would want that he currently doesn't have. His answer - more rain. They would still have a hard life, but there would be more vegetation for his animals to graze on, and he wouldn't have to sell more animals to eke out his meagre existence. Just by being there today with our Intrepid group meant that his family would have a little bit more food to eat this week. For me today's visit was a real honour.

A mountain pass and going down memory lane as we crossed from Ait Benhaddou to Imlil at the foot of Mount Toubkal, highest mountain in North Africa. We took the scenic Tizi n Tizchka pass, an epic mountain road. On arrival at Imlil, we hiked up to our mountain gite in the village of Aremd in the Toubkal National Park. I was last in this village 16 years ago on my way down from the summit of Mt Toubkal.(4167m high) This morning some of us set off further up the mountain to visit a shrine. This is such a beautiful area, changed a lot since I was last here, a new road built only in the last couple of years. The mountain gite was comfortable, with lovely home cooked food.

Essaioura, on the Atlantic ocean, feels more European than Moroccan. It is home to a large fishing fleet, wood and silver crafts, and Argan oil. The towers around the port are replicas of Belem Tower in Lisbon. Time for a bit of shopping and a traditional Hammam.

And then there is Marrakech. Our last full day which also coincides with the Morocco vs Canada football match. It seems like the whole city has come to a standstill. All the cafes and bars are full of men watching the match, very few women are present. Last night our group took the local bus into the city centre to the famous Djemaa el Fnaa square for street food. This is the central market square which really comes alive at night. Today we went to the Majorelle Gardens, the Bahia Palace and the Ben Youssef Medersa (former Koranic school, now a museum with beautiful islamic architecture).

Morocco, you have more than exceeded expectations, and my trip has been really well organised by Intrepid Travel. Imperial cities, desert, mountains, coast. It really has been the Best of Morocco. I'll miss this country and our group of Intrepid travellers. I'll miss our guide Hisham, but most of all I really hope the Moroccan people get the rain they so badly need to make their lives a little bit easier.