Krakow – one of the best short breaks in Europe!

John Ryrie on 29 March 2017
Earlier this month (March 2017), I took a four night trip to Krakow. I have visited Poland a few times before, but not Krakow itself. I have to say without doubt it's now one of my favourite cities in Europe, to which I will return, and a really amazing short break destination in so many ways – culture, history, gastronomy, architecture and museums.

Krakow, on the banks of the Vistula River is now the second city of Poland, but used to be the Medieval capital. It has a population of about 750,000 people and it’s a very easy city to discover on foot. Having survived wars and oppressive regimes, it has become one of Europe’s cultural gems. In the beautiful old town, the centrepiece is Europe’s largest medieval square, Rynek Glówny. Most of the buildings here are in a neoclassical style, and dominating the square are the arcaded Cloth Hall and the Mariacka Basilica, both well worth a visit. It’s a great place to sit and have a coffee or beer, and people watch. In December they set up a fantastic Christmas market there, one of Europe’s best! The imposing Wawel castle with Cathedral is nearby, plus countless soaring church spires and amazing museums.

The city and surrounding areas have an (in)famous history from World War II, and I took a tour to Auschwitz Birkenau (about 90 mins coach drive from the city centre), probably something anyone visiting should consider. To be where one of the biggest atrocities in the history of the world took place was very sobering and thought provoking, and the experience of the visit is something that will always stay with me- but I am glad I went and saw it. Back in the city itself, a visit to the Oskar Schindler Factory was another thought provoking tour.

I also went on a trip to the Wieliczka Salt Mine, about 30 mins outside the centre. One of the largest salt mines in the world, you descend to over 300m below the surface, and see underground lakes, amazing chapels and even a cathedral, all hewed out of the salt. There are even chandeliers made of thousands of salt crystals - well worth a visit.

There are some great English language free walking tours all around the city each day, with quite a variety to choose from. The quality and knowledge of the guides was amazing! I toured the Old Town as well as the former Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, where remnant synagogues reflect the grim tragic history, but today has experienced a real revival with lively squares and backstreets with no end of restaurants, bars and clubs – the place to be in the evening!

For you foodies out there, I really enjoyed the variety of different food choices and restaurants. A must try are pierogis, dumplings filled with all manner of savoury or sweet fillings. I visited a small ‘hole in the wall’ restaurant that only served this dish….the pork filled and cherry ones were delicious. Also one to try is zurek, a sour rye soup made with polish sausage and usually served in an edible bread bowl. Trust me, it tastes delicious! Cost wise, eating good food and drink is amazing value in Poland. You can have a great meal with drinks under 10 pounds if you find good Polish restaurants that serve what I would call ‘honest’ food. Maybe not going to win Michelin stars, but delicious and great value.

I stayed in the Hotel Indigo, just on the edge of the old town. Converted from a beautiful historical building and only open since Sept 2016, each of the 60 or so rooms are themed on one of three of Poland’s greatest painters. It has a lovely boutique feel throughout, and the restaurant chef prepares dishes from fresh ingredients sourced at the local Old Kleparz food market right outside the door – also worth a walk around.

Summing it up, Krakow is one of my top 5 cities in Europe for a short break at any time of year, with something for everyone. With low cost airlines operating direct flights from everywhere in the UK to Krakow’s John Paul II Airport (around 2 hrs 15 mins flight time), Krakow is great value to stay, explore and eat.

I’d be delighted to help you plan a trip and share my tips and experience from my visit.