05 November 2018

The word Kerala derives from ‘kera’, meaning coconuts and ‘alam’ meaning land - so land of the coconuts! This slender coastal strip in the South is one of India’s most varied, beautiful and serene states. With a colonial history, beautiful green coastlines with pristine beaches, languid backwaters to explore, lush tea and spice plantations that amaze in the Western Ghats mountains, Kerala really has something for everybody! Just setting foot on this land of soul-calming, palm-shaded green is enough to slow anyone’s fast-paced life to a relaxed amble and is poles apart from the frenzy of some of India’s other major tourist destinations. I started my trip in the port town of Kochi (Cochin), once the main centre of India’s spice trade. Not to be missed is the Mattancherry Palace presented as a gift to the Raja of Kochi as a gesture of goodwill by the Portuguese in 1555. It houses some astonishingly preserved Hindu intricate murals (see my pictures). Also not to be missed is wandering through the historic, once thriving, Jew Town, with its streets of brightly painted houses and the Paradesi Synagogue - from 1567 it’s the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth. Also close-by is the Santa Cruz Basilica, one of the most impressive churches in India, or you can try your hand with the locals at Chinese net fishing, and then watch residents haggle over the catch! One more thing to be sure to see is Kathakali – a colourful performance where silent actors vividly translate their historical stories and words into a language of facial expressions, bodily attitudes and poses, and figurations of the hands. Kochi has many wonderful hotels to suit all tastes and budgets, and I can certainly recommend one to suit from the many I visited, whether you like historic, trendy, super luxury, or eco-boutique! After a few days in Kochi it was time to head up into the Western Ghats Mountains, at an elevation of some 6000 feet, to Munnar, once a colonial hill station retreat that became Southern India’s largest tea growing region. Incredible beauty as you see the hills and slopes covered in vivid green tea plantations, all orderly and sculpted like ornamental hedges. If you like the great outdoors and walking or cycling, then here is a place to come. A short drive away is Eravikulam National Park, to see the largest wild population of the Nilgiri Ibex, an endangered goat species; I was also lucky enough to be there when a small shrub that flowers only once every 12 years was in its full delicate purple bloom everywhere! Quite a sight and lucky to see it. In Munnar are a variety of hotels and as an alternative, beautiful homestays, where you stay at a local family’s estate where they will make you very welcome and prepare for you the most delicious food tailored to your tastes. This is a really nice alternative to a traditional hotel stay and worth considering. After staying in Munnar it was time to descend lower from the ‘land of tea’ to the famous spice plantations that Kerala is so well known for. Staying in Thekkady, you can visit spice plantations and learn all about the cultivation of cardamom, pepper, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg - the list goes on. I didn’t realise how some of these spices were cultivated and used. Peppercorns from the Malabar Coast in Kerala, for example, used to be known as black gold as they were so valuable, and green, black and white peppercorns all actually come from the same plant (and are all green when initially harvested!) It’s a great opportunity to buy some fresh spices for gifts or to take home and cook with yourself, so stock up at direct at the plantations for the best in freshness and price! Next stop on my trip was Kumarakom, close to Alappuzha, and situated on a lagoon in the backwaters of Kerala, the so-called Venice of the East. Home to some beautiful, relaxing hotels, it’s from here you can combine your stay with an overnight or day cruise on one of the iconic Kerala houseboats. Once used to carry tons of rice and spices, these exotic slow-moving barges are a truly magical way to take in the breathtaking views of the untouched and otherwise inaccessible rural Kerala as you float along with daily life going on around you. Kerala is certainly not short on jaw-dropping beaches which is a great way to end a tour around of the state, so the final part of my trip was to visit two top beach destinations. Marari is a sleepy small fisherman’s village and its beach has won international awards. Kerala has a law that prevents construction within a few hundred meters at much of its shoreline, so they really are pristine, unspoilt and tranquil. You can watch the fisherman at sunrise or sunset in their colourful boats, or just laze in a hammock strung between some coconut palm trees and later watch a stunning sunset. I also visited Kovalam, just outside Kerala’s state capital of Trivandrum, which is a more developed beach resort with lots for the visitor to do and see in the vicinity. People also come here from all over the world for Kerala’s Ayurvedic resorts and retreats, developed over hundreds of years, their sophisticated mind-body programmes embrace massage, special diets/treatments and yoga and are used to treat weight, stress, and many other ailments/diseases. So, when to go… October to February is the best time to visit Kerala with great weather. March to June can get humid in Kerala, this is the off-season, so there are great deals to be had. July to September: The monsoons showcase Kerala in all of its lush splendour with nature is at its best during these months, but it can be very wet indeed! Kerala is a fantastic destination for so many reasons and I can’t recommend it highly enough. If you want to know more then just let me know and I can put together the perfect trip for you!

03 April 2018

The Kingdom of Cambodia, a country filled with some of the friendliest people I’ve ever encountered, rich history, delicious food, a lively nightlife and remarkable value. Cambodia is a country still finding its way after the horrifying genocide that was carried out by the Khmer Rouge regime (led by Pol Pot) between 1975 and 1979, when around one quarter of the Cambodian population were killed. This is still in the minds of many you people meet who share they past personal family experiences and future hopes for their amazing country. Starting in the capital Phnom Penh, a city of just 1.5 million of the 16 million in the whole country, is an ideal introduction to the history and ongoing growth. A must of everyone’s visit list includes the infamous Tuol Sleng former Khmer Rouge Prison, today a Genocide Museum, and the very moving and sobering Killing Fields just outside the city at Choeung Ek. Hearing about what happened at these places is chilling and helps you understand how the population suffered so terribly at that time. On a lighter note, you can hone up your bargaining skills and visit one of the many markets for all manner of things, including great value clothing and other typical souvenirs, followed by a typical Khmer cuisine meal and afterwards drinks at one of the trendy rooftop bars in the city. There is a choice of great value boutique hotels to stay, great service and even some with beautiful rooftop infinity pools to cool off with a cocktail after a long day, watching the sunset over the city. From here it was off by coach through the countryside to 2nd city, Battambang, known as the rice bowl of Cambodia for all the rice and food produced in the province. A charming place that seems like a step back in time with French Colonial architecture teetering into genteel disrepair. Beautiful temples and shrines are in no short supply here, connecting you with the history and culture and you can even try your hand at making rice noodles, rice pancakes used for spring rolls or try the well-known local dish, bbq field rat sold along the roadside. It really tastes like chicken…I had to give it a try! It was here we gate crashed a Cambodian Wedding Party – these last for three days, and we were greeted like family members to join their celebrations. Battambang offers beautiful, laid-back boutique hotels. ‘Brad & Angelina’ were previous guests at the beautiful Maison Wat Kor, where I stayed! Then, the final leg of my journey on to Siem Reap, gateway to the legendary temple ruins at Angkor (where Tomb Raider was filmed). The most famous temple complex, of the many scattered around, is the immense Angkor Wat, which even appears on the Cambodian Flag and is the country’s No1 tourist attraction. It’s one place in the world that should be on everyone’s bucket list – truly stunning and awe-inspiring, dating back to the 12th century. Siem Reap has a rich history and has a lot to offer visitors in and around the city itself with amazing food, markets and nightlife. A real highlight and must-see is Phare - The Cambodian Circus, where the young, amazingly talented performers use theatre, music, dance and acrobatic arts to tell uniquely Cambodian stories. Its revenues go to training young people from the countryside in performing arts skills, giving them a better life than rural farming. Also accessible from Siem Reap is Tonle Sap Lake (the largest lake in Asia) with its floating villages. You will see the local communities which are still recovering from the Khmer Rouge times and Pol Pot regime, their houses floating on the lake or perched on thin stilts along the adjoining river that keep the occupants dry during the wet season, with giant ladders to reach the lower levels during the dry season. The people eke out a tough living on or along the water, yet they are still full of smiles and a welcome. So that’s just some of what Cambodia has to offer, a great choice for a week or preferably more, and ideal to also combine with neighbouring Vietnam for a longer stay. It’s still relatively early in terms of tourism development, so a great time to go.

05 April 2017

Earlier this month (March 2017), I took a four night trip to Krakow. I have visited Poland a few times before, but not Krakow itself. I have to say without doubt it's now one of my favourite cities in Europe, to which I will return, and a really amazing short break destination in so many ways – culture, history, gastronomy, architecture and museums. Krakow, on the banks of the Vistula River is now the second city of Poland, but used to be the Medieval capital. It has a population of about 750,000 people and it’s a very easy city to discover on foot. Having survived wars and oppressive regimes, it has become one of Europe’s cultural gems. In the beautiful old town, the centrepiece is Europe’s largest medieval square, Rynek Glówny. Most of the buildings here are in a neoclassical style, and dominating the square are the arcaded Cloth Hall and the Mariacka Basilica, both well worth a visit. It’s a great place to sit and have a coffee or beer, and people watch. In December they set up a fantastic Christmas market there, one of Europe’s best! The imposing Wawel castle with Cathedral is nearby, plus countless soaring church spires and amazing museums. The city and surrounding areas have an (in)famous history from World War II, and I took a tour to Auschwitz Birkenau (about 90 mins coach drive from the city centre), probably something anyone visiting should consider. To be where one of the biggest atrocities in the history of the world took place was very sobering and thought provoking, and the experience of the visit is something that will always stay with me- but I am glad I went and saw it. Back in the city itself, a visit to the Oskar Schindler Factory was another thought provoking tour. I also went on a trip to the Wieliczka Salt Mine, about 30 mins outside the centre. One of the largest salt mines in the world, you descend to over 300m below the surface, and see underground lakes, amazing chapels and even a cathedral, all hewed out of the salt. There are even chandeliers made of thousands of salt crystals - well worth a visit. There are some great English language free walking tours all around the city each day, with quite a variety to choose from. The quality and knowledge of the guides was amazing! I toured the Old Town as well as the former Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, where remnant synagogues reflect the grim tragic history, but today has experienced a real revival with lively squares and backstreets with no end of restaurants, bars and clubs – the place to be in the evening! For you foodies out there, I really enjoyed the variety of different food choices and restaurants. A must try are pierogis, dumplings filled with all manner of savoury or sweet fillings. I visited a small ‘hole in the wall’ restaurant that only served this dish….the pork filled and cherry ones were delicious. Also one to try is zurek, a sour rye soup made with polish sausage and usually served in an edible bread bowl. Trust me, it tastes delicious! Cost wise, eating good food and drink is amazing value in Poland. You can have a great meal with drinks under 10 pounds if you find good Polish restaurants that serve what I would call ‘honest’ food. Maybe not going to win Michelin stars, but delicious and great value. I stayed in the Hotel Indigo, just on the edge of the old town. Converted from a beautiful historical building and only open since Sept 2016, each of the 60 or so rooms are themed on one of three of Poland’s greatest painters. It has a lovely boutique feel throughout, and the restaurant chef prepares dishes from fresh ingredients sourced at the local Old Kleparz food market right outside the door – also worth a walk around. Summing it up, Krakow is one of my top 5 cities in Europe for a short break at any time of year, with something for everyone. With low cost airlines operating direct flights from everywhere in the UK to Krakow’s John Paul II Airport (around 2 hrs 15 mins flight time), Krakow is great value to stay, explore and eat. I’d be delighted to help you plan a trip and share my tips and experience from my visit.

09 April 2014

I have travelled to Vietnam a few times now, and am sold on this wonderful country, rich history, beautiful places, and great food and with everything from the amazing beaches to authentic experiences with the incredibly friendly and welcoming Vietnamese people. I started my journey in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) in the south, the largest city in Vietnam. Today, the city is still adorned with wide elegant boulevards and historic French colonial buildings. The majority of these must see’s are located a leisurely walk from each other. The most prominent are the Reunification Palace, City Hall, Municipal Theatre (aka the Opera House), City Post Office, State Bank Office, City People's Court and Notre-Dame Cathedral. Some of the historic hotels are the Hotel Majestic (where I stayed), dating from the French colonial era, and the Rex and Caravelle hotels are former hangouts for American officers in the 1960s/70s. Great shopping is everywhere, and a huge night market where you can shop for anything and everything from that knock-off Prada bag, to trendy t- shirts for about two dollars (remember to bargain!) with restaurant to suit all palates and wallets! There is night life too with bars and clubs open till the sun comes up for the party goers! A must-do day half day trip is to the Chi Chu Tunnels that were used by Vietcong soldiers for hiding spots ,communication/supply routes, hospitals and living quarters for the communist North Vietnamese fighters in the Vietnam war. I then travelled to the Mekong Delta, about two hours south-east of Saigon, for a couple of days to experience real Vietnamese rural life – an incredible experience. Travelling by coach, river boat sampan and even bicycle into villages to meet locals who earn their living making bricks and sleeping mats, farming coconuts and using every part of them from the hair, shell, flesh and milk for something. This was a real highlight of the trip for me, to sit, talk, eat and cook with the people of the Meekong delta – an experience I will never forget, including sampling such delights as Elephant Ear fish, and river shrimp! After a night staying in the amazing Meekong Riverside Lodge (the name describes it perfectly), the next night was spent in Can Tho, the main city in the Meekong delta, where my karaoke skills were well tested till very late (my signature tune is Copacabana in case you are wondering). The Vietnamese love karaoke! Also a trip to the floating market in Cai Rang is highly recommended with hundreds of boats on the rivers selling all manner of exotic fruit and vegetables. After two days in the Delta, it was back to Saigon to catch a one hour flight up to Hue in central Vietnam, which was the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty, the last ruling family of Vietnam who ruled for 143 years till 1945. There’s loads to see here as you can imagine with its history, including the Imperial City and Citadel, Pagodas, monasteries, mausoleum, and a trip on the Perfume River in a Dragon Boat! I stayed in the beautiful Pilgrimage Village Inn, which is beautifully situated surrounded by tropical vegetation, and has an amazing spa. The Thai deep tissue massage is heaven! Other things I did in the area included cycling around the villages and beautiful rice paddies, visiting farms, tasting the produce, cooking pancakes and making incense! Next on the itinerary I went on to Danang (two hours’ drive), the third city of Vietnam and home to one of the top ten beaches in the world. Danang has some world class hotels/resorts and is a good base to visit other surrounding areas, and just chill out on its beautiful beaches, swim in the South China Sea and eat wonderful fresh fish and seafood! About 30 mins drive away is Hoi An (which means "peaceful meeting place") a must see for a day or two, especially if you want any clothes made (including from silk), as tailors will make anything you want overnight and deliver it to your hotel the next day. Hoi An was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999 as the old town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect the local and foreign influences. In the evenings, brightly coloured lanterns hang everywhere giving the place a fairy tale feel. So, that’s Vietnam, incredible in so many ways. Call me to find out more!

12 November 2013

In October 2013, I went on a seven day cruise on the Azamara Quest starting in Nice, and then to Monte Carlo, St Tropez, Propriano in Corsica, Amalfi, Sorrento and finished in Civitavecchia (Rome). This was the first cruise for me, and I had never really felt it was something for me or that really appealed. How wrong I was - I'm converted for life! Now I understand why once people have cruised once they go again and again. Waking up every day in a new place, not having to pack and repack, and with all the touches and luxury that Azamara include as standard meant I was blown away with the whole experience from start to finish. The experience on the Azamara Quest was fantastic, an amazing ship. With only 694 passengers when full, and 390 crew, it’s a very exclusive experience. Being much smaller than some of the cruise ships today, it meant we could visit places that the larger vessels cannot, such as Amalfi and Sorrento. I had a veranda stateroom (highly recommended), which was great for rolling straight out of bed, opening the curtains and sitting out to have my breakfast when I felt like it! The choice and quality of food, with four choices of restaurant from relaxed to more formal (but not too much) was amazing. I'm still trying to lose the weight I put on! Azamara are also one of the few cruise companies to include drinks as part of the price - boutique wines, well know spirits and beers plus all soft drinks are included. Azamara is a relaxed experience, and doesn’t include any formal dress nights. Smart casual was ideal for an evening with no jacket or tie necessary, although some people did like to dress up more. The crew quickly got to know who everyone was, and their genuine smiles and friendliness made me feel welcome from day one. When the ship was in Monte Carlo, all guests were invited to join an 'AzAmazing' complimentary evening excursion, a private opening of and tour of the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, with entertainments and a drinks reception which was visually stunning (see the pictures). Most of the cruising is done at night on this itinerary, so there was the opportunity to go ashore during the day and see the beautiful places visited. It was my first time in St Tropez, Amalfi and Sorrento and they were all beautiful. On the few days I felt less energetic I just relaxed in the sun round the pool, sipping a cocktail (or two!) and reading my book. It’s the perfect balance between things to do and just relaxing. It’s up to everyone to choose what was perfect for them. The ship never felt busy or crowded. With a spa, gym, casino, theatre, library, nightclub and the wide choice of bars and restaurants you could be a social or quiet as you wanted. There was a wide spread of ages in terms of passengers (though no children, as it was during school term). There would probably be better activities for kids on some of the more family orientated cruises such as Royal Caribbean. It’s a really sociable experience, it was easy to meet and chat to people, and I made some new friends that I will definitely stay in touch with! For those of you reading this who have never cruised, you should try it, and you will be a convert like I now am. For those of you that have cruised but haven't tried Azamara Club Cruises, you really should, and then you will know what you have been missing! I'm already planning my next cruise on Azamara, of course! Drop me a line or give me a call and I can tell you more about the experience and we can get planning your cruise!

30 June 2013

II was lucky enough to live in Berlin from Oct 2011 to Dec 2012, and want to share with you what a great place it is to visit, with no end of things to do - iconic sights, museums, great shopping, an exciting music scene and loads of history! Not many cities can claim to have been divided in two as Berlin was, until the 1990 reunification. This is one of the reasons why the city is so diverse and has so much to offer culturally. Each area or suburb has a distinct feel to it. All Germans pay a tax towards rebuilding so the East of city is now nowhere near as stark as it once was. However, there are still some great examples of communist architecture, such as the Karl Marx Allee, a 2km long monumental socialist boulevard built in the 1950's to showcase how great and powerful the GDR was! For those interested in the history of the GDR and the much feared STASI (East German Secret Service), there are many museums which tell the history of the communist state. The old STASI detention and interrogation prison is really worth a visit, with tours led by former inmates! The Wilhelmstrasse in the Mitte district used to be the centre of government for the Kingdom of Prussia and later for the German 3rd Reich. The Topography of Terror exhibition here is a very moving museum/exhibit on the brutality of the Nazi regime. There is also the old headquarters of the Ministry of Aviation, built for Herman Goering, a stunning example of National Socialist architecture. The site of the Hitler bunker is on this street, but a sprawling East German pre-fab concrete block of flats was built on top many years ago. Going from the former East to the West there are many well-known landmarks and sites. Two of the most notable are Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall. Although much has been demolished there are still parts of it left so you can see where it all was and get a feel of what it must have been like. The stunning Brandenberg Gate at the end of Unter den Linten is a must see on any visit! For those who like museums, the 'Museuminsel' or Museum Island is a unique ensemble of five museums including the amazing Pergamon. This is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site where you could spend literally days looking around. Berlin is a shopper’s paradise, from the opulent and world famous KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westerns.....'department store of the West') in, not surprisingly West Berlin, to the beautifully redeveloped Frederichstrasse in the former East. It is now home to every designer store you can imagine, plus a branch of the famous Paris institution Galleries Lafayette. In the Hackescher Markt area there are lots of quirky individual designer stores and nice places to eat. It is well worth a browse for really unusual things! Remember that shops are usually closed on a Sunday, so if you are having a long weekend shop on Fri and Sat! Potsdam is well worth a visit if you have time. There are three palaces - the New Palace and Sanssouci, both built by Frederick the Great (Fritz - the potato king), and the Cecilienhof, where the Allies held their conference after WWII. It's Germany's largest World Heritage Site. You can get the S-Bahn and it’s only a 30 minute journey away. With a massive choice of hotels and restaurants, Berlin is amazing value and is not nearly as expensive as other European cities. Here are my top tips for Berlin: - Make sure you try a Currywurst - the German national dish! It's a sausage chopped up with curry sauce and chips that you buy and eat on the street - they are excellent! - Do a walking tour around the Schoeneberg district and find out about the heady pre-war 30's in Berlin - it was wild! - Take the bus or U-Bahn out to see the now disused iconic Tempelhof Airport, and do a Segway tour of the airfield which is now a park. In general public transport is excellent and runs 24 hours a day. Buy a multi-day travel card as it works out a lot cheaper. - Consider a sightseeing bus tour - but you can almost do the same route on the number 100 and 200 buses at a quarter of the price, just no commentary! - Make sure you visit the Alexanderplatz, where the public demonstrations started the downfall of the GDR and see the station famed by the Cold War espionage - Visit the zoo, one of Europe's best and right in the city! - November or December are a great time to visit as there are around 50 Christmas markets – the Gluhwein is fantastic! If you are thinking about a trip to Berlin I'd love to have a chat with you and share some of my insights so please get in touch. I look forward to hearing from you!